With the rising energy costs there has been an increase in interest for energy saving appliances. Efficent “tankless” water heaters have become very popular for their capability to heat hot water on demand, with no storage tank required. Instead of holding water in a traditional water tank, they circulate the cold water through a series of electrically heated coils that warm the water as it moves pass this heat source. This newer process of warming water requires more expensive equipment than the conventional water heater, but this money is regained in the long term with energy efficiency savings. The energy savings is mainly gained from no longer needing to heat an entire tank of water.

Since the tankless water heaters do not store hot water but rather constantly heat water as it is demanded, they do not run out of hot water. There is one exception, to this “endless” supply of heated water. The flow rate is limited. In other words if you simultaneously use more water than the flow of the water heater (i.e. 3 people showering at one time) you will receive unheated water.

Since conventional water heater stores the water together in a large tank it is able to provide water at a set temperature. Tankless water heaters differ in this aspect since they are dependent upon the incoming water temperature and the flow rate. The incoming water temperature can vary greatly from summer to winter. The capacity of a tankless water heater is generally measured by how many temperature degrees it can increase water temperature by gallons per minute (gpm). Most tankless water heaters are powered by gas to better handle the heat output and response time required. These gas powered water heaters require proper venting, normally more venting than the older, conventional water heaters required. If you are replacing a conventional electric water heater tank, you may want to add a power vent in the side of the wall. This would be the less costly alternative if there is no existing roof vent. Some of the smaller and more portable single-fixture units are powered electrically.

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The needs will vary depending upon the type of pool you own. Therefore, this article will talk about it in general. You should always refer to your pool and pump instructions for additional information. Things you will likely need are liquid or powder shock, bromine, chlorine powder or tablets, sanitizing cartridge for the cartridge filters, pH increase or decrease and a test kit to test the chemical levels.

Do not take off just yet and run to the local pool supply store for chemicals. Stop and take a few minutes to check out all of your hoses, skimmer baskets, clamps, gaskets and o-rings. If any of the parts look like they might need replaced, take them with you to the pool supply store. It is a lot easier to match replacement parts if you have the old part with you.

Now that you have the easy part finished, it is time to begin the fun. The first thing required taking the cover off. You will want to enlist help for this, because you want to avoid getting any top water into the pool water. In an above ground pool, you should siphon the water off with a hose.

To get a good siphon started, hook up the hose to the spigot and put the other end of the hose into the top water. Turn the hose on for a minute to fill it. Next crimp the hose a foot or two away from the faucet, and with your other hand, disconnect the hose from the spigot. Position the hose at a downspout drain to discharge then let go of the crimp. The water will reverse and start to drain.

Once you have the water cleared, use a leaf rake to remove as many leaves and twigs as possible. Next, remove your cover weights or springs. At this time a few people positioned around the pool will help to keep the cover out of the water. Try to fold your cover like a blanket keeping the crud in the middle then remove the cover. You need to scrub the cover thoroughly so it is dry for summer storage.

Now it is time to attach all the pump hoses. Remember to lube plugs, fittings, valves, and o-rings with petroleum jelly. Also, be sure to remove any freeze plugs that were used to cover the hose openings. You will most likely need to add water to the pool. It needs to be filled to the skimmer halfway point.

At this point you should start re-circulating the water and check for any leaks around the pump and hoses. Once your pool is leak and drip free, skim off as much floating debris as you can with your skimmer net. Open all your valves to flood the hoses and prime the pool pump. Most manufacturers recommend constant recirculation of the pool water for at least three days. Any crud and debris on the sides and bottom of the pool will need to be scrubbed off. Use the broom attachment of your pool vacuum for this.

After all debris has been removed and the pool has been scrubbed, check your filter for cleaning. Some pumps have removable filters; others are back-flushed, so clean as directed. Once the filter is cleaned, you can now super shock the water as per your manufacturer’s instructions. If you start with green water, you will need a lot more shock. It may take a few days of recirculation to clear the water. Once the water has cleared, test your water or take a sample to your pool supply store and have it analyzed. Adjust the water as required and keep the recirculation going. All that is now left to do now is to wait for the water to warm up so you can start enjoying your pool.

Author , Atlas Green Homes  713 545 2429

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